Cut determines how effectively a diamond's facets interact with light, creating the gem’s signature brilliance and sparkle. Unlike other diamond characteristics that form during the growth process, cut quality results from the diamond cutter's skill and precision. A masterfully cut diamond reflects optimal brilliance, disperses vivid fire-like colors, and creates dynamic sparkle patterns when moved (this is called scintillation).
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The GIA grades diamond cut from Excellent to Poor based on proportions that maximize light performance. An Excellent cut diamond returns nearly all light that enters the gem, resulting in exceptional sparkle and visual impact. In contrast, a Poor cut allows light to escape through the pavilion (bottom), resulting in a dull appearance regardless of the diamond's other qualities.
Diamond color refers to the absence of color, with completely colorless diamonds being the most valuable and rare. The GIA color grading scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z, with each letter grade representing a subtle increase in color saturation. Diamonds that fall outside this range — such as vivid pinks or blues — are classified as "fancy colored" and are evaluated differently.
Clarity measures how free a diamond is from inclusions (internal characteristics) and blemishes (surface flaws). The GIA clarity scale ranges from Flawless to Included. Most diamonds fall somewhere in between, with inclusions that are microscopic and don't impact their beauty.
The impact of inclusions varies dramatically depending on their size, number, and position. The location of an inclusion matters as much as its size — an inclusion directly under the table (top facet) affects appearance more than one hidden near the girdle (edge). This makes each diamond's clarity assessment nuanced and highlights the value of viewing diamonds individually rather than relying solely on certification
Carat is a measurement unit that describes a diamond's weight, with one carat equaling 200 milligrams (roughly the weight of a paperclip). It's important to understand that two diamonds of identical carat weight can appear noticeably different in size depending on their shape and cut. A well-cut diamond maximizes surface area and light performance, often appearing larger than a poorly cut gem of equal weight.
Shape refers to a diamond's outline when viewed from above and should not be confused with cut, which describes the gem's facet arrangement. The most popular shape remains the round brilliant, and any non-round shape (such as emerald, marquise, oval, or princess) is considered a "fancy shape."
When evaluating size, consider actual millimeter measurements rather than relying solely on carat weight. A standard 1-carat round brilliant typically measures about 6.5mm in diameter, while a well-cut oval or marquise of the same weight may appear larger due to their elongated shape and greater spread.
Natural diamonds form deep within the Earth under extreme conditions of heat and pressure over billions of years. They are comprised of nearly 99.95% carbon — making diamonds the only gemstone constructed of a single element. They are the hardest naturally occurring materials found on Earth and gem-quality diamonds are one of the most sought-after. Because of their limited quantity, natural diamonds have been cherished for their enduring value and passed from generation to generation.
Lab diamonds are optically, chemically, and physically the same as natural diamonds. Their difference lies only in their origins — natural diamonds form within the Earth, and lab diamonds are grown by professionals with specialized equipment. Another difference is cost; as lab grown diamonds are less rare than natural diamonds, they often come at a much more accessible price. Do you think you can tell the difference between lab grown and natural diamonds just by looking? Test your eye with these side-by-side images.
1. Master the 4 C's. To discover the ideal diamond for you, develop an understanding of how each factor affects a diamond's appearance and value. Then, determine which characteristics matter most to you personally. If exceptional brilliance is your priority, emphasize cut quality above all else. If impressive size makes the greatest impact for you, you might strategically compromise on color, cut, or clarity to get a greater carat weight. Remember that there's no universally "correct" combination — your aesthetic preferences should guide the way.
3. Select your signature shape. Round diamonds offer unmatched brilliance and traditional appeal, but typically command higher prices than fancy shapes, which can provide better value and a distinctive appearance. Choose the shape that resonates with your personal style, whether you're drawn to timeless rounds or the unique character of fancy shapes like oval, cushion, or emerald.
4. Ensure proper certification. Your diamond should come with a comprehensive grading report from a respected independent laboratory such as GIA, IGI, HRD, or GCAL. These certificates verify your diamond's authenticity and provide objective documentation of its quality characteristics. Please note that all Brilliant Earth center stones are certified.
There's no single "best" combination, as it depends on individual preferences and budget. However, for maximum visual appeal, many experts recommend prioritizing excellent cut, color in the G-J range, clarity in the VS1-SI1 range, and the highest carat weight your budget allows. This combination typically yields a diamond that appears colorless to the naked eye, has no visible inclusions, displays excellent brilliance, and maximizes size.
A diamond is crystallized carbon formed under extreme pressure and temperature in a lab or deep within the Earth over billions of years. It ranks as the hardest known substance and valued for its exceptional hardness (10 on the Mohs scale), brilliance, and fire.
Certified diamonds are diamonds certified by independent institutions such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the International Gemological Institute (IGI), HRD Antwerp, and the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab (GCAL). All Brilliant Earth center diamonds are certified.
Diamonds are the hardest known substance found on Earth. They are so hard that they rank at the highest hardness level (a 10) on the Mohs scale. Therefore, diamonds are ideal for everyday wear, making them perfect as center gems in jewelry as well as engagement rings.
Diamond price varies greatly depending on rarity and quality. Diamonds with higher grades in cut, color, or clarity, or diamonds with a larger carat weight, are rarer and therefore more expensive than those with lower grades or carat weights. Lab grown diamonds are less rare than natural diamonds and are therefore less expensive.
Diamonds are graded on a scale developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) that analyzes cut, color, clarity, and carat. These 4 C's are universally acknowledged as the accepted standard in describing and determining the quality of any diamond:
Diamond BraceletThese effects depend primarily on the diamond's cut quality. A well-cut diamond has precise angles and proportions that maximize light return through the crown (top) of the diamond. When light enters the diamond, it bounces off the internal facets and returns through the top, creating the characteristic sparkle. A poor cut allows light to escape through the bottom or sides, reducing sparkle significantly.
Diamond clarity measures the presence of internal (inclusions) and external (blemishes) imperfections in both natural and lab-grown diamonds. These characteristics develop during formation — either naturally under the Earth's pressure and heat or during the lab-growing process — or during subsequent cutting, polishing, and wear. A diamond's clarity grade, ranging from Flawless to Included, indicates how noticeable these imperfections are under 10x magnification, though many are invisible to the naked eye.
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) established the industry-standard 4 C's (cut, color, carat, and clarity) in 1953. Their diamond Clarity Scale consists of 6 categories with 11 levels, ranging from Flawless to Included. Professional graders use 10x magnification to examine each diamond's imperfections, assigning a clarity grade that becomes part of the gem’s certification report.
No inclusions and no blemishes visible under 10x magnification when viewed face up. Less than 1% of all diamonds are FL clarity, as it is nearly impossible to find a diamond that is completely inclusion and blemish-free.
Natural and lab grown diamonds develop distinct internal characteristics through fundamentally different processes. In natural diamonds, extreme heat and pressure transform carbon deep within Earth over billions of years, trapping various materials that become visible inclusions — primarily pinpoints (tiny dots) and feathers (small internal breaks). While lab diamonds develop similar physical features during their accelerated growth, grading terminology shifts between natural and lab reports; what GIA calls a "pinpoint" in natural diamonds might appear as a "growth remnant" in lab diamond documentation, reflecting their different formation stories rather than different inclusion types.
Both lab and natural diamonds can develop external imperfections (blemishes) after formation, typically during cutting, mounting, or wearing. The most common internal inclusions include cavities (angular openings from extended breaks), clouds (hazy pinpoint clusters), crystals (mineral deposits), feathers (white, crack-like formations), graining (whitish or reflective lines), needles (rod-like crystals), knots (surface-reaching crystals), and pinpoints (microscopic dot-like crystals). Common external blemishes include abrasions (edge nicks creating fuzzy white areas), chips (shallow surface openings), naturals (remnants of the original rough diamond), nicks (small girdle notches), pits (tiny white dots), rough girdles (granular perimeter surfaces), and scratches (thin white surface lines).
Prioritize an Eye-Clean Look: Focus on eye-clean appearance rather than technical grade. While Flawless is the highest grade, consider starting with SI1, SI2, VS1, or VS2 diamonds, which often appear eye-clean at significantly lower costs than higher grades.
Consider Cut Style: If you're hoping to purchase a diamond with rectangular or step-cut facets, such as an asscher or emerald shape, you'll benefit from a higher clarity grade, as these cuts emphasize transparency and allow you to see deeper into the diamond.
While Flawless and Internally Flawless diamonds command premium prices due to their rarity, eye clean or Slightly Included diamonds offer excellent value and remain a popular choice for most customers. The key is finding the right balance between clarity grade and other factors that affect a diamond's overall quality and beauty.
The highest quality clarity grade of diamonds is Flawless. These diamonds have no inclusions or blemishes at 10x magnification and are very rare. However, VS2 and above are typically considered excellent choices as they appear clean to the naked eye at significantly lower prices.
Diamonds that have inclusions or blemishes that are not visible to the naked eye are considered 'eye clean.' Most VS2 and higher clarity diamonds are eye clean. Some SI diamonds can also be eye-clean, depending on the specific inclusions.
Clarity is the absence or presence of inclusions in and blemishes on the surface of a diamond. Diamond color references the absence of color in a diamond. Both are important, but priority depends on personal preference and diamond characteristics.
Yes, clarity still applies to side stones, though melee and accent stones are not typically graded by gemological labs. If you're designing your own ring, consider matching the accent clarity to your center stone or go a few clarity grades lower.
Gemologists with special training and tools can detect small differences between the two through detailed examinations under high magnification. The main differences between lab grown and natural diamonds lie in their microscopic details and internal structures. Natural diamonds form with octahedral growth patterns and often include inclusions from natural minerals. Lab grown diamonds display slightly different growth patterns and may contain metallic inclusions from the production process. Additionally, many lab grown diamonds feature a tiny laser inscription on their girdle that identifies them as lab created. These distinctions can only be observed with specialized gemological tools that detect unique fluorescence patterns and internal characteristics.
Could you spot the difference? Most people find it nearly impossible to distinguish between lab grown and natural diamonds with just their eyes. This similarity is part of what makes both options so appealing. Whether you choose a lab grown diamond or a natural diamond, you’re selecting a timeless gem that’s beautiful and brilliant.
Interested in learning more about diamonds? Check out our other Diamond Guides: Diamond Cut, Diamond Clarity, Diamond Carat, Diamond Color, Diamond Shape, Lab Grown Diamonds, Moissanite vs. Diamond, Moissanite vs. Lab Diamond, Cubic Zirconia vs. Lab Diamond, How Are Lab Grown Diamonds Made?, MM to Carat
